Biosecurity for Backyard Chicken Keepers

Learn how to keep your hens safe from developing illnesses!

Classic Cottage Flowers for Your Coop

Learn not only what to plant but where to plant it!

29 Thoughts to Ponder Before Getting Backyard Chickens

Lately, there have been some negative backyard chicken articles popping up in the mainstream media that I want to address.

Decipher Egg Carton Labels

What do those words on the egg carton mean? Print your very own chicken-nary here!

Cleaning Your Coop the Natural Way

You wouldn't spray chemicals in your baby's crib to clean it, would you? Of course not. Nor do you want to use chemicals when you clean your chicken coop, no matter how dirty it gets.

A 12-Year-Old Quailman!

In a rural pocket of the Shenandoah Valley, a 12 year old named Josiah is raising quail, for fun AND profit.

Cool Coops ~ The Chick Compound

This month's "Cool Coop" is an inspiration to all those folks who choose to embrace retirement and undertake the projects they had dreamed and planned for when they had the time.

Dietary Supplements for Backyard Chickens

Just like it is important to make sure that we are getting all of our dietary needs on a regular basis, it is the same with chickens. Did you know that there are a variety of supplements that you can use in your chicken's diet to help promote their health?

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Know Your Enemy: Chicken Predators & Nite Guard Giveaway

by Melissa Caughey of Tilly's Nest

Perhaps it is a bit of a misnomer to call these beautiful and wild animals enemies, but it is important for you to be aware of the fact that they can and will harm your flock if given the opportunity. One of key things to know is that simply keeping chickens does not attracts predators to your yard. It is the way that you house and tend to them that does. Therefore, it is important to try and develop good habits, especially when it comes to coop maintenance, feeding practices, and locking them up at night. Most predators are in fact lazy and if they can't gain access to your flock quickly, they give up and seek out other sources of food that are not difficult to access. Predators usually hang around if they believe they can easily obtain food.

Photo Credit
No matter where you live in the country, even in the city, you should get to know your local predators. A good place to start is with your state's Department of Wildlife. Once you know who the local  predators are, you can do some research. Start asking questions. Do they fly? Do they dig? Can they squeeze through small holes? Do they come out in the day, night or both? From there, take precautions.

Chicken Predators
Fisher Cats
Snakes- eggs and chicks
Skunks- eggs and chicks
Birds of Prey-hawks and owls
Mountain Lions
People- chicken theft
Rats/Mice- spread disease
Mites/Lice/Ticks- can kill birds if populations are large enough

Photo Credit
How do predators gain access to chicken coops/runs?
From the sky
From digging
Brute force
Outsmarting locks

What makes your chickens vulnerable?
Uncovered runs
Access holes into coops and runs
Keeping the flock unlocked in the evening
Leaving food and water in the run outside
Unclean coop and run
The use of chicken wire

Photo Credit
What can you do?

Inspect and make repairs to the coop or run where access is breached.
Cover the top of the run to keep animals out.
Remove food and water from the run at night.
Harvest eggs frequently.
Keep a rooster.
Limit free-ranging or try to supervise it.
Hang old CDs or repellent tape near the coop to deter hawks.
Use motion sensing lights near the coop.
Lock up your flock each and every night.
Add two to three foot wide hardware cloth apron around the run to deter digging animals.
Use predator proof locks. If a two year old can open the lock, so can a raccoon.
Train the family dog.
Keep chicken feed stored in covered metal bins.
Treat your flock for parasites.
Check out motion activated sprinklers.
Install electric fencing for larger predators.
Replace chicken wire with hardware cloth.
Try adding Nite Guard Solar blinking lights to your coop to mimic predator eyes.

2 Nite Guard Solar Lights and 1 Roll of Repellent Tape

Check out the videos of these predator deterrents in action.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

For more Nite Guard Solar videos, click here
You can also visit Nite Guard Solar on their websiteFacebook page, and Twitter.

About the author: Melissa Caughey is a backyard chicken keeper, beekeeper, gardener, and cook who pens the award winning blog, Tilly's Nest. She lives on Cape Cod, Massachusetts with her family of four and her Miniature Schnauzer. She regularly writes for HGTV Gardens, Community Chickens, Grit magazine, and contributes to Country Living Magazine. Her blog was recently named one of Better Homes and Gardens Top 10 Gardening Blogs. Melissa is currently working on a backyard chicken book with Storey Publishing to be released this upcoming year.

Sunday, April 20, 2014

Cool Coops! ~ Hobbit Hole Chicken Coops

by Rebecca Nickols

This month's "Cool Coop" is a quaint, whimsical coop that brings to mind a scene from Tolkien's The Lord of the Rings or The Hobbit. - I'm sure that the beloved character from the series, Bilbo Baggins. would be proud to house his flock in such a well crafted - and adorable - structure.

Wooden Wonders offers these coops, as well as, Hobbit Hole playhouses, pet homes and gardens sheds. Their goal is to beautify the landscape while inspiring imitative work or play. Continue reading as Melissa & Rocy Pillsbury describe the history, construction and amenities they offer in their Hobbit Hole Chicken Coops:

The inception of Wooden Wonders was inspired by the birth of our first son, Richard. Rocy is a carpenter by trade and his work required him to travel and work long hours away from home. We wanted to build a business that would utilize Rocy's talent as a designer and craftsman that would also allow us to be based out of our home.

Rocy spent his childhood reading fantasy novels and playing out the characters in the fantastical worlds he loved in the back woods of his family home.  Our business is the result of combining Rocy's imagination, penchant for design, and woodworking skills.

We brought our first Hobbit Hole to the 2009 Common Ground Country Fair in Unity, Maine along with a castle tower playhouse prototype.  We were absolutely swarmed with playing children all three days of the event, so we knew we had something that appealed to kids, but what was really telling was the reaction of amazement and curiosity we received about the Hobbit Hole. We knew we had a winning concept. We hit the ground running and started designing and building Hobbit homes for many more applications than playhouses:  storage shed, summer room, outdoor home office, pig barn, bus stop, sauna, and the list goes on...

Our Hobbit Hole chicken coops not only look great, they have all the great design features you'd expect in a top of the line chicken coop, and then some.  We offer three different coop sizes to meet the needs of a broad range of poultry enthusiasts, from just small handful of birds up to a flock of 30.  Our coops come with ample perch space and nest boxes for the recommended number of birds per coop.  You have many options to customize your coop to meet your needs:
  • Removable washable floor liner to simplify coop cleaning.
  • Our custom cedar clapboard roofing.
  • Cold climate options:  floor insulation and heavy duty floor liner.
  • Attached run constructed of all cedar, framed with our custom curved rafters.
  • Nest boxes available in two styles:  freestanding or attached to inside of coop access door.
  • Add a pop door to the back wall if your flock will access a run attached to the rear of the coop. 

If you're looking for an unusual coop built to high quality standards that will exceed the needs of your flock (and your needs as the one who takes care of them) while also beautifying your landscape and standing out from the crowd, you've come to the right place.

We like to say our Hobbit Holes chicken coops are the world's best reason to keep chickens, but if you've got one or two better reasons, we'll settle for a top three position!
- Melissa & Rocy Pillsbury

Here are a few photos of the "Proudfoot Hobbit Hole Chicken Coop" that illustrate the design, features and "coolness" of just one of the unique coop styles that Wonder Works offers...

The Proudfoot coop measures 85" x 51" x 52"H and is suitable to house 8-15 chickens, depending on the size of the breed and the amount of time your flock will be spending inside the coop.
Choose our custom cedar clapboard roofing option for a leak-free roof! We cover the v-match pine roof deck with a waterproof underlayment before installing the final layer of cedar clapboard roofing. Since the roof also covers two sides of the coop, the multiple layered construction of the roof as well as the shiplap pine sheathing on the two gable walls minimize the chilling effects of cold windy conditions. Add the floor insulation option for added protection from the cold!
Unique "Easy Egg Access" nest box option attaches to the back door so when you open the door your eggs are at hand and detaches from the back door when you need better access to the inside of your coop.
Nest box easily attaches to and removes from the door-mounted brackets. Top of nest box is covered with vinyl flooring = easy to clean! A freestanding "stacking" double nest box is also available and can be positioned anywhere inside the coop.
The coop comes with a total of 13' of perch space on three moveable perches that are 6 inches off the ground.
Each window opening in your coop is covered with predator proof 1/2" x 1/2" square galvanized steel hardware cloth, and the windows can be latched securely closed when not in use with the installed hook and eye latch (hook and eye latch not shown).

Thanks Melissa & Rocy for sharing your unquestionably "Cool Coops" with the Community! Your design is not only unique and creative, but your attention to function, accessibility and the flock's safety are top-notch...

You can view additional coops and structures available by Wooden Wonders by visiting these sites:

Click on the link below for previous entries in the "Cool Coops!" series...

Cool Coops!

Do you have a "Cool Coop" you'd like to share? Email me at:

To view what else is happening at our Southwest Missouri property visit: the garden-roof coop
If you enjoy bird-watching (in addition to chicken-watching), I invite you to "like" my Facebook page:

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

The Tale (tail?) of a Roo

by Meredith Chilson Once upon a time, a chicken hatched some eggs.  Now, I understand that this happens all the time, but this time was different.  The eggs belonged to another hen.  They were adopted.

The mother hen was very happy to finally have a brood of her own.  She was particularly fond of her roo-chick, letting him have the tastiest morsels first.  He was even allowed to roost on her back, so that his feet would stay warm and he could have a good view of the world. 
He had two sisters, but they were lower down in the …ah…pecking order.  They shared their tasty morsels with him, and trailed along behind him as he cruised the brooder pen.

Days passed, and the young chicks grew feathers and were able to join the bigger flock in the chicken coop.  The old hens didn’t much care for the youngsters—insisting that they learn the ropes and rules of the hen house: age determines roost position, lunch line position and even heading-back-into-the-coop-at-night position.

The chicks continued to grow.  Percival Rooney (or Percy or just Rooney) grew tail feathers and a beautiful red comb and wattles.  His feathers took on a lovely sheen—iridescent in just the right light, which he often could find by standing in a certain spot in the entrance of the coop.  The hens began to look at him differently.  And, truth be told, he began to look at them differently as well.

Rooney’s sisters became part of the flock.  They (Yolk-o and On-No) still followed their big brother around the yard, calling out when they found a juicy fat bug he might like to try, and sleeping next to him on the roost –one on each side at first, and then as the older hens moved aside and made room for him higher up on the roost, the sisters protected him from below.  And truth be told, Rooney began to look at his sisters a bit differently, too.

All seemed to be going well in the hen-plus-one-handsome-rooster house.

Until one night….

When an accident occurred…

Now, no chicken has confessed, and no one really knows what happened, but when morning rolled around and the lady who brings the food opened the door to the coop….Rooney was lying on the floor.  He was able to get up, but he could not walk.  He’s a heavy breed; maybe he fell from the roost.  Or maybe…

We’ll never know for sure.  What we do know is that his sisters were next to him on the floor, protecting him.  They continued to stay next to his metal cage, when he was transferred to the “medical wing”. After it was determined that Rooney need more intensive care and he was moved to the Big House (not the one in the sky—the one where the lady who feeds the chickens lives), Yolk-O and Oh-No continued nestling next to the cage.

Rooney spent the cold winter in the much warmer mudroom of the Big House, in his own box full of shavings.  He learned not to crow whenever the furnace came on or the phone rang.  He announced all visitors and made friends with a little girl.  (He did not make friends with the little girl’s dog, who attempted to lick his comb.  Once.)

Rooney had no broken bones, but a bad sprain and possibly joint damage.  The months of confinement in the small box helped his ligaments heal, as did occasional massage therapy in front of TV.  Little by little, he began to hop around the mudroom, especially when the litter needed changing.  Once his little home was clean again; he happily climbed back into the box.

Spring arrived and Rooney was returned (box and all) to the chicken coop.  The old hens didn’t care much for that.  Rooney tried to re-introduce himself to the ladies, but learned he must go through the whole rule-learning process again.

Chickens are funny though, aren’t they?  The first morning after Rooney returned to the coop, when the lady who brings the food came in the door, his two sisters were snuggled next to him on the low roost….keeping him company, protecting him.

Now, it’s too early to tell if they will all live happily ever after, but maybe because his sisters were befriending him…or maybe just because of Rooney’s handsome tail feathers…the other hens seem to be looking at him a little bit differently.

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

5 Tips for Introducing Teenage Chicks

by Jennifer Sartell of Iron Oak Farm

Right now at Iron Oak Farm we have chickens at all different age levels. I have an existing adult flock in our coop; teenagers who are too old for the brooder; and week old chicks still in the house. Balancing all these birds and providing for their different developmental needs can be tricky. Especially if you don't have a huge farm with lots of different pens or areas to keep a few isolated members.

The first year is usually a cinch. You get your tiny little flock, everyone grows up together and everyone goes out into the coop together. Done! No pecking order problems, no introduction phases, everyone gets along.

But what about the next year? How do you integrate new spring chicks into an existing flock?

Another issue that I face (and maybe you're experiencing this as well) is that I have different birds/breeds coming available at different times. We picked up some Leghorns, Welsummers and Bantams early in the season, they are now (what I would refer to as) teenagers. They're feathered out, but still very tiny compared to our adult hens.

I also have some tiny week-old Buff Orphingtons and Black Jersey Giants in the brooder. I'm waiting for a call on some Partridge Cochins and I even have plans to fire up the incubator later in the season with some Oliver Eggers. 

Here's some insight as to what we're doing with our revolving flock, and a few suggestions to make this transition easy!

Why Separate?
Why not just place the feathered-out chicks into the pen with your adults? They're all chickens after all?

You would think that they would all just get along, and sometimes, they do. But...sometimes they don't. Pecking order can be a brutal process. Depending on the type of chickens you raise, how much space is in your coop and  other magical factors that only chickens understand. Even after following all these careful separation steps, I've still had the rare occurrence of a chick getting injured by a territorial adult. It's usually a head wound. They'll grab the head feathers a little to roughly and it causes a sore. Sometimes, if it's not caught in time, other members of the flock will be drawn to this spot and continue to peck the poor chick. So best to be overly cautious and try to avoid this.

The Dorm Room
There's a few ways to go about separating birds and introducing different groups at different ages. But more than likely you're going to need a second holding pen, we call this the dorm room. It's like the teenage party wing, where the chicks are still learning how to be adult chickens. They're out of the nest, but not quite into the adult world. I'm lucky in that we have a few different pens around the farm where I can set up a teenage wing, or an outdoor brooder if the situation calls for it.

Ideally, this area would be part of your existing coop with some sort of see-through, smell-through partition  like chicken wire, garden fencing or a large dog crate. This works best because the adult chickens get used to seeing the chicks. They can interact with them somewhat, but the chicks are still safe.   

When to Move?
I start our chicks indoors in these wonderful large-animal water troughs. They work great and will be my go-to brooder for many years to come. (For more on indoor brooding tips check out my posts Raising Chicks and 5 Ways to Better the Brooding Experience.)

Once the chicks are feathered out and getting too old/messy for the indoor brooder, we move them to the teenage wing, which is a sectioned area in front of our turkey pen connected to our coop. I keep them here until they are about 2/3 the size of our adults. It doesn't take long.

They key is that you want them introduced, especially if you have cockerels that will be living with roosters, before the males start crowing. This will prevent cock-fighting. Pecking order is different than cock-fighting, and if done right, the young cockerels learn where they belong in the flock, and you shouldn't have a problem with raising more than one rooster. (For more about raising multiple roosters read my post Keeping Roosters Together.)

How to Introduce
Sometimes it works well to introduce chickens at night. They sleep together, smell each other, and everyone wakes up none-the-wiser. This works "in theory". However, I've learned the hard way that if you're going to try this, be willing to get up early the next morning to check on everyone.

The day you decide to introduce, be willing to spend a good amount of time watching your chicks interact with your adult flock. There will be some pecking and chasing and that's ok. Let this occur to an extent. Sometimes the chicks will be chased to a corner with their heads down, where they will stay for a long time. Some of the hens will give them a good peck on the head if they attempt to eat before other hens, which is why it's smart to have more than one food dish. This is all normal behavior, and although it might be a little sad to watch, it's part of your new flock's dynamic. They're communicating with each other and it should be a short process.

When to Step In
Don't remove a chick unless the pecking/chasing is relentless or dangerous. Each time the chick is removed, it will have to begin the pecking order over again, so if it's not in danger of being wounded, best to let it get done and over with. If you do feel that the pecking is getting out of hand, I've found it works better to remove the aggressor rather than the chick. By removing the adult and placing them in a separate area for a while, this sometimes confuses the territorial behavior and when the chicken returns to the flock, it has to re-adjust to it's surroundings and tends to leave the chicks alone.

Hopefully these tips will help this spring to those of you who are adding to your flock. Do you have any tips on how to introduce new members to an existing flock? I'd love to hear them! Share your comments below or on the Community Chicken's Facebook Page.

Monday, April 14, 2014

Chicken Scratch from The Cottage Hens

by Debbie Bosworth of Dandelion Hous

Howdy fellow chicken keepers! It's an exciting time of year here at the Little Red Hen House. The ground has finally thawed in our chicken run enough for us to finally get out of the coop and stretch our legs. We have a nice big run ( 12 x 60 ) attached to our coop and we couldn't be happier to be outside digging new holes, lookin' for bugs, and dusting off the last of Old Man Winter.  We always get excited when we see mother hen cleaning the flower beds because we know there's always something delicious and fun in it for us! Come on in and see what she served up for " her girls" yesterday! 

Sunday, April 6, 2014

5 Ways to Better the Brooding Experience and a GIVEAWAY!

by Jennifer Sartell

I've been brooding chicks on and off for the past 19 years. And it is a wonderful experience! One that I look forward to every year. I've been known to sit cross legged for hours watching our sweet little birds gently poke around, nod off to sleep in a hilarious instant and discover their new world in the brooder box.  It's purely precious!

Then the 4th week rolls around they start getting in their wing feathers, scratching, trying to jump out of the box, fill their waterer with bedding and taking dust baths in their food dish. Oh, and speaking of dusting...dusting for humans becomes a daily chore to the surrounding room, as well as vacuuming. It's about this 4th week that I start anxiously watching the temperatures to see when these babies can go outside.

Ideally, I wish we had a warm garage or some sort of isolated outbuilding that I could put the brooder in. But we don't have a garage, and I don't like heat lamps in the barn. Even with a heat source, our spring nights get bitter cold, and I'm not sure if it would be enough for baby chicks to keep warm.

So like many of you reading this with a box of chicks in the spare bathroom or basement or in our case, our sun room, our chicks reside in the house till they feather out and the weather warms up.

Now in all fairness, raising chicks in the house is relatively easy especially when compared to other animals that are commonly raised indoors. There is a small mess factor, but all animals make messes. Dogs shed, cats have liter boxes, aquariums need water changes...and though a dirty brooder box may emit an odor, in my opinion, it doesn't hold a candle to a dirty hamster cage.   

Here are 5 ways that I've discovered to make your chick's indoor stay less messy, less stinky, and easier for us as chicken keepers. (Also check out my post Raising Chicks to learn the basic needs of chick brooding.)

1. Air Purifier

Ok, so this might be an expensive investment for the soul purpose of brooding chicks for a few weeks out of the year, but we already have one that we use in our bedroom at night. I have terrible allergies and as luck would have it, I'm also allergic to pine. I've tried alternative bedding options, but as far as the absorbancy, ease to clean and over all effectiveness, I like pine shavings the best. So I choose to suffer through my allergies until the chicks go outside.

It dawned on me one day to move the air purifier into the sun room and see if it helped with the air quality of the chick room. I was really, really surprised at how effective it was. Not only do I see a difference with my sinuses as far as the pine is concerned, but there is significantly less "chick" dust in the room and barely an odor, even when the box needs cleaning. So depending on your budget, it might be worth the investment.

A word about using it in the same rooms as chicks. Make sure that the fan isn't blowing directly on chicks. A draft can cause a chill in chicks and make them sick. I feel like it would work best with brooder boxes with solid sides to help block any draft that might be created.

2. Air Diffuser and Tea Tree Oil
I got a diffuser for my birthday this year. It's a very simple contraption that you plug in, fill with water and then drop in a few drops of essential oil. I love to use lavender in our bedroom to help relax and sleep, and citrus oils like lemon and orange to revitalize the house, especially after a nice deep clean.

This spring I tried the diffuser in our sun room with the chicks and added a few drops of tea tree oil. The nice thing about tea tree is that it's a very purifying and cleansing oil. It also has antibacterial properties. So unlike an artificial room spray, it actually has air cleansing properties and doesn't just mask odors.

My mom came to visit and she's somewhat of a critic when it comes to keeping chicks in the house. But she told me that she couldn't smell the chicks at all and the brooder hadn't been cleaned in several days.

If you aren't familiar with tea tree oil, it has a strong herb-y smell that reminds me of pine or mint. It can be mixed with other oils like grapefruit to make your home smell wonderful.

3. Use The Biggest Container You Can Manage
It might sound counter-intuitive, like a bigger box might seem like a bigger mess. But for those of you who have ever set up a fish tank, you know that a larger aquarium stays cleaner than a small one. Same goes for chicks. The more room you can give them, the cleaner your brooder will be and the less often you will have to clean it.

4. Tablecloth Liner
I got this idea from the brooder boxes at one of our local feed stores. Like us, they also use a large galvanized water trough for a brooder. I was at the feed store early in chick season and I happened to see one of the employees cleaning out one of the troughs. Each trough was lined in white plastic and pinched to the edges with simple squeeze clamps. In three quick movements, the clamps were taken off, the edges of the plastic were gathered, and the whole mess was removed and bagged up and could easily have been carried to a compost pile. Amazed...I quickly asked the employee if they sold the plastic liners. Sadly she said no, that they order them from a company. It dawned on me that a plastic table cloth from the Dollar Store would work perfect.

Now you'd have to take into consideration how many times you clean your brooder and how thoroughly you like to clean it each time. I like to freshen things up each day by adding a new layer of chips over the old ones. Sort of a mini deep liter method. Then once a week I scoop everything out and replace completely.

If I use the table cloth method, This would give me 5 complete cleans for $5. For me, that's not a bad deal.

You have to be careful when removing the table cloth because the ones I found were not made from the best quality of plastic. I've had a couple small tears but I was able to contain the mess until I got outside. The ease was definitely worth it in the end.

For a more earth friendly option you could use a re-useable tarp. Just dump the contents on the compost, hose it off and let it dry in the sun. You're still doing a fair bit of cleaning, but at least the mess can be brought outside. We've done this in the past with our ducklings. (For more about brooding duckings read my post 6 Easy Tips For Duck Brooding Success.)

5. Nipple Water System and a GIVEAWAY!
This tip is one I'm most excited about. One of my least favorite things about brooding chicks is the constant battle of providing fresh, clean water.

Chicks love to scratch, and in confined quarters like a brooder box, they can easily fill up a clean waterer with bedding material. And let's face it, it's a pain in the neck to clean in the house. The soggy wood chips have to be scooped out and if you scoop them into the brooder it gets everything soggy. And if you don't get them all out of the waterer, they clog your drain when you re-fill the water. It's just yucky!

This year we received these fabulous nipples from Solway Feeders. (Now located in the US!) They're easy to install into a bucket and the whole system is closed so the water stays super clean which is healthier for chicks and easy for you as their keeper. And thanks to Solway, you now have a chance to win a set of nipples for your own brooder!

Simply leave a comment below with your name, email and why you like raising chicks and I will select a winner on Tuesday April 15th, 2014!

For more information about how you can purchase the Side Mounted Horizontal Nipples or other great products from Solway, visit their website. 

Also visit the Iron Oak Farm Blog for step by step instructions and a video on how you can use the Solway water nipples to create your own bucket waterer and the chance to be entered in another GIVEAWAY! 

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Giving New Life to Ex-Battery Hens

by Melissa Caughey of Tilly's Nest

As chicken keeping continues to grow in America's backyards, people are slowly beginning to wonder just what the quality of life is for egg laying chickens raised in the commercial setting. Many hens raised for eggs are sent to slaughter at 18 months of age. According to farmers' their height of egg laying is over. As soon as these hens are whisked away for processing, new chicks are brought in and so it goes. Many commercially raised hens spend their lives in very tiny cages with many other hens. Some have their beaks trimmed to deal with feather pecking. Their combs are pale and their quality of life is dismal. But there is hope.
Photo Credit: Debeaked battery hen
Many agencies across the globe and some perhaps even in your own backyard are giving battery hens a chance on life. Some are rescued by farm sanctuaries. Others are rescued by loving chicken keepers like yourselves. Once rescued, some of these hens see and feel sunshine on their feathers for the first time. They take their first dust baths and finally have room to spread their wings and scratch in the dirt. Overtime, they "learn" what it is truly like to be a chicken. Their feather regrow and they find compassion in people and their time in the factory becomes a distant memory.
Photo Credit: Typical battery cages with hens
Adopting ex-battery hens is very popular in the UK and Australia and is growing in the United States. Often, if you live near an egg farm, you can reach out to them directly and offer to take a few hens.
Photo Credit Rescued ladies
This little hen named Little Miss Sunshine is taking Australia by storm. She is one amazing ex-battery hen.

If you too are interested in exploring the possibility of adding ex-battery hens into your flocks, these are few places where you can start.

Ex-Battery Hen Online Resources
Animal Place (California)
Humane Society
British Hen Welfare Trust

About the author: Melissa Caughey is a backyard chicken keeper, beekeeper, gardener, and cook who pens the award winning blog, Tilly's Nest. She lives on Cape Cod, Massachusetts with her family of four and her Miniature Schnauzer. She regularly writes for HGTV Gardens, Community Chickens, Grit magazine, and contributes to Country Living Magazine. Her blog was recently named one of Better Homes and Gardens Top 10 Gardening Blogs. Melissa is currently working on a backyard chicken book with Storey Publishing to be released this upcoming year.

Friday, April 4, 2014

Spring Cleaning Your Chicken!

by Meredith Chilson 

 It’s a sunny spring day.  The coop doors are open to the outside, and the hens are digging and scratching in the wet leaves.  It’s too early, yet, to do a thorough coop cleaning—there will still be a few days of sloppy snowflakes and nights when the temperatures fall below freezing.  It’s just the right day, though, to pause while working in the perennial beds, lean on the rake and watch the hens.

They are busy scratching in the leaves and digging out little seeds and all sorts of treasures.  They chatter and gossip in a neighborly way. The feathers on their fluffy butts waft gently in the breezes.  I have an assortment of chicken breeds in my flock, so those fluffy back feathers are varied in color –red, black, gray, brown, even white and blonde.  They look so nice and ICK!! 

Stop reading right now if you think the rest of the story is going to be about fluffy feathers or gossiping hens.  It’s not.  It’s going to be about poop.  Specifically, poop stuck to those fluffy feathers…and what I do to get rid of it. 

I think probably, if you have chickens, there will come a time when you, too, will look at the end of a chicken that is supposed to be all fluffy and realize that it’s pretty nasty looking.  This usually happens, here, after a winter when the hens haven’t been able to get outside much, and before there’s much to dust bathe in besides floor litter.

So.  I put up the rake and assemble my “tools”.  I don’t have an outside tub for hen bathing, and since I do use my kitchen sink for preparing meals – the butt-cleaning process takes place alfresco.  On the backside of our coop, we have several stacked straw bales covered with a tarp.  It’s the perfect height and breadth to lay out a few cotton towels, a pair of scissors, a couple of pieces of clean bath toweling from the rag bag, a pair of latex gloves and a couple of buckets of hot water. 

My hens are friendly girls, used to being picked up and handled, so it’s no problem capturing the icky chickie and tucking her head under my arm. 

I began by assessing the problem, soaking one of the terry cloths in the warm water (it started out hot, but by the time it made it to the coop, and I caught the chicken, it cooled to a comfortable temperature), and just sort of draping it on the back end of the chicken.  
warm cloth on chicken

After a minute or so, I started working the softened manure off the chicken’s feathers.  The water bucket was handy, so it was easy to clean, remove, rinse and repeat.  I removed every bit of stuck on debris that I could, and then I trimmed the dirty feathers.  Cut them right off.  I used a clean washrag, soaked in the water from the second bucket (still clean) to do a final rinse, and then I dried the area thoroughly.  If I had electricity at the coop, I might even have used a hair dryer on low to dry and fluff those clean feathers.
All clean and rinsed!

Finally, I set the hen gently back in the coop, and let her preen and refluff as best she could.  It didn’t take long before she was happily chatting with the others again. 

I think this is the simplest way to clean up a chicken’s nether parts.  It’s certainly not my favorite part of hen keeping, but it’s one of the responsibilities that come along with it—part of keeping the flock healthy. 

Next time you’re leaning on a rake watching and listening to your chickens – give them a look-over.  Are all those up-ended butts fluffy, or do they need a bit of spring-cleaning?

Monday, March 31, 2014

What Would You Do?

by Taylor Miller

Every week at Community Chickens, we get dozens of questions from people across the world, hoping to find someone who has shared a similar experience. We try to answer them all, and forward them on to experts where we can. But many of the questions are unique, and because of this, we realize that sometimes the best people to answer the questions are precisely the people who are or have been in your shoes. This is why we often ask our guest bloggers to tackle questions - and they do such a great job!

So here's what we're asking, "What would you do ..." if you were in some of the following situations? What would you tell our readers? What is your best advice?

YOU might be the best person in the world to answer someone's question ... and we want to provide you with that ability. So, go for it!

If you'd like to respond to a question, leave a comment, and be sure to indicate to which question you're responding: (e.g., Q1: This is what you should do ...)


Facebook photo by Michael Lake
Q1: Dennis writes: What are the costs associated with raising chickens? Is it worth it for a family of two?


Q2: Bonita writes: I love your site! Delightful tips on cleaning of coops - and perhaps you would be willing to guess with me - since not permitted to keep chickens on our size of property (insufficient distance between dwellings on all sides) - I am now considering a yard "tractor" for accessing the yard, moved around for variety and nourishment, and an indoor coop in a corner of the basement, with ramp up to the window to access the out doors (managed entrance and exit - window opened for entry/exit and closed again to exclude varmint). 

I am wondering how in the world I would manage dust (glass window "walls" may help; coarser, "washed" sand? I don't know about dust bething . . ) , and if I would need to get into the clipping of wings. I would have liked them to roam (the yard is fenced well), but am not willing to risk a public escapee.

I like to work through as many potential conundrums as possible *before* venturing into such a project - so many thanks!


Q3: Mark writes: We just had 1 hen die, and another that looks as though she will at any time.

We don't know why this has happened, and was wondering if it was safe to use their manure on our garden this Spring.

If they have a disease or a health problem of some sort, will that translate to the soil from their manure ?

I know this might be a gardening question, but we trust the info from you and your site.

We will have only 1 hen left if this second one expires and we were wondering if she should be culled for butchering, or is it best not to chance eating her ?

We are starting a new flock of 6 chicks that are 2 weeks old and were thinking of using our present coop to house them in in 6 weeks or so.

Do you recommend any specific type of cleaning of the coop that would kill any disease or other problem that might be lurking there ?

Thank you so much for any help you can give us.

God bless  


Facebook photo by Dee Waters
Q4: Linda writes: I was just asked if the eggs, in shell, you buy in the store are pasteurized and how they do it without cooking them. Not really sure how to answer that question. Would appreciate your input.



Q5: Cathy writes: Over the past several weeks, my 5 (one year old) chickens went from laying 4-5 eggs a day to none. Then, after a few days, one chicken started laying daily, which was her norm, and another laid for 2-3 days only and then stopped. Her eggs were long and thin which I have never gotten before. 3 of my girls have or currently are going through a moderate molt. Another thing that has happened in the past week is that they won't eat their scratch, which they love. I even changed brands and they still won't eat it. They are eating their laying pellets and other table scraps.

I'd appreciate your comments/suggestions.

Thank you


Q6: Brenda writes: How do I stop Rat Snakes from eating my eggs.


Q7: Peter Lavelle writes:Is it possible to "toilet train" chickens? By this I mean, NOT to poop

at my door step. They free range over 3 acres of grass and wooded areas

and they only place I mind their poop, is at my stoop. Any ideas?


Q8: PeggyAnn writes: My Americana, MaggieMae, has a prolapsed vent. What can I do? Also, how do you give a chook a pill??


Q9: Carol writes: My chickens just don't seem to be eating their feed well, I use crack corn and some chicken pellets, they just leave a lot. What is the best feed for them, 

Thank You



Facebook photo by Jim Smoot

Q14: FlyPegFly writes:
3-part question:
1. My backyard neighbor has 3 giant german shepherd dogs that NEVER EVER shut up. the barking is constant. Will that stress a chicken or two too much?
2. My cat is a total predator. She kills and eats everything her size or smaller. Obviously if I get chickens I'll have to keep them in a cage (probably a tractor type thing), but if the cat is always stalking them, will they be too stressed to lay?
3. Are chickens really quiet enough to get away with in a HOA neighborhood with rules against them? As long as I don't start telling everyone I know that I have them, then they should be quiet enough to get away with, right?

Click here to answer.


Q15: Joni writes:
What's the earliest a cockerel will start trying to crow?

Click here to answer.


Facebook photo by Kim Mullen

Q16: Greg writes:
I am building a chicken tractor and want to get something straight. I am planning on buying 5-6 chickens and keeping them in the CT for a week or so and then letting them out to walk around. Shouldn't these chickens come back to the CT toward night to roost without me having to chase them down??

Click here to answer.


Q17: Jonnie writes:
I went out to feed the chickens this morning and noticed two eggs on the floor of the coop. Before I could reach in there to get them, the roo stepped on one and broke it. Immediately, all 5 of my hens jumped on it and started eating it! I was able to get the other one out. I have noticed a SERIOUS reduction in eggs lately, but I don't know if this is due to egg eating. How can I stop this behavior or does this mean doom for my the majority of my small flock?

Click here to answer.


Q18: Susan writes:
Can a chicken coop be put on concrete or gravel or does it need grass?

Click here to answer.


Q18: Tri writes:
Anyone have any tips on cleaning sticky bottom chicks?

Click here to answer.


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